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Aconcagua Expedition

Extraction

February 26th, 2011

After our monumental physical effort in getting to the summit on the biggest mountain outside of Asia, the trip had not come to an end just yet. We still had a two day hike descending 4000m and covering 40km to deal with, and let me just say that that it brought back memories of my Army days and the forced pack marches we had to complete. Descending in mountaineering boots is torture because your toes slide forward with each step slamming into the front of the boot, a process known as Boot Bump. I survived the entire expedition without a single blister then in the first three hours during day one of descent I had two lovely little blisters on the top of the third toe on each foot. I decided to change into my trekking boots and put up with the loss of traction in exchange for comfy feet. The second day heading down was seven hours of fast paced hiking carrying all our gear, at the end of this day I felt like I had played a game of A grade Rugby after 5 years off and no warn up, but spirits were high and on arrival at the park entrance even pain couldnt take the smile off my face.  We were picked up by our bus at the entrance and settled in for the three hour ride back to Mendoza, showers, steak and a soft mattress. It was an amazing trip with a fantastic team and world class guides.

As of this writing I have had 5 days of Eating, sleeping and recovery and am now back in my favourite country of all and ready to smash up training in Sydney. I dropped 9kg on the expedition which has to go back on and I now have six weeks till I depart for mountain number two, Denali in Alaska. I gained knowledge and confidence from Aconcagua and am more excited then ever to get to Alaska, but for now its training time.

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Aconcagua Expedition Summit Day

February 21st, 2011

Summit Day, the day we have been working toward for near three weeks is finally here. The day is long and is broken into three stages, the first stage is the climb from Camp 3 to a ridge called Independencia. From here to a rocky outcrop called the cave is the second stage and from the cave to the summit is the third. A good team can reach the top in 9 hours with a 3 hour descent to follow. We had to be up and ready to leave at 5.30AM, after a massive sleep I was up with boots and crampons on ready to leave at 5AM. It was a bitter cold morning so I was wearing four layers of clothing with the Down Jacket over the top of everything. Another team departed earlier than we did so as I was waiting for the rest of my team to get ready I watched their headlamps winding upwards towards Independencia far above. We set off slightly after the scheduled time going at the very steady pace of the high altitude mountaineer. For the first leg I felt great except for the fact that I had the theme song for the childrens cartoon Roger Ramjet repeating over and over in my head. We reached Independencia just as the sun broke over the horizon and covered the scene in amazing shades of orange. There is a small UHF radio shack perched on top of Independencia that has an open roof, as I gazed inside the opening out of curiosity I was brought sharply back to reality by a body wrapped in a silver body bag lying motionless in front of me. This was one of the climbers that we were told about back at camp three, one of the unfortunate English team to perish on the mountain during the three day storm. I decided to not alert the rest of the team to the bodies presence as I think it would have broken the focus of some. After a short rest, my Down Jacket was shoved into my pack, the goggles were brought out to protect me from the suns powerful UV rays and snow blindness, and we set off into the second stage towards the cave. On the way to the cave we had to travel along a notorious ridge called the Windy Pass. In the past the Windy Pass has been a road block for many due to the intense winds and cold but today we were blessed with near no wind and a glorious sun. Half way to the cave our leader Matias took the tough decision to turn back one of our team members who was showing signs of extreme fatigue. These decisions have to be made in order to protect the team member but also the rest of the team. If someone becomes immobile up high it jeopardizes everyones safety, with this in mind Matias turned Dody around, he was very upset but understood and with the help of one of the guides made his way slowly and safely back to Camp 3. The rest of the team arrived at the Cave six hours into the day and took a well deserved rest stop and prepared for the final push to the top. I remembered during our time at the cave that the second English climber to perish was supposed to be laying here somewhere, I had a glance around but couldnt see the body anywhere. I think his team mates placed his remains further back in the rocks out of respect for him and the other climbers, I didnt pursue the thought. The third stage was the toughest of the three, it was the steepest section by far, made harder due to the altitude and our fatigue from the previous six hours. We needed many rest stops and it seemed that the summit stretched further and further into the sky the harder we pushed. Eventually when we were within a few minutes of reaching our goal, our guides Matias, Leo and Agustine let out shouts of congratulations to the rest of us. I knew I had made it then even before taking the last few steps on to the perch and I must admit I got a little emotional and was choking back a few tears of joy and relief. Standing on top of one of the biggest mountains in the world, the feeling of accomplishment was immense and there was plenty of hugs and high fives shared between the team. The sponsors flag was pulled out and pictures were taken, a big thanks goes out to my Major sponsor for Aconcagua the Emerald Coalfields Lodge team for giving me the chance to tackle this mighty adventure. We rested on the summit for a good half an hour and when Matias reminded us that we were only half way we decided to begin our slow descent back to the safety of Camp 3. A large percentage of deaths occur in mountaineering during the descent so it was vital that we stay focused and helped each other as much as we could to get down safely. Two of our team members begun to trip and stumble from fatigue so Matias made the decision to attach ropes to them and guide them for the remainder in case they were to pass out on a fatal stretch of ridge line. It took us just over eight hours to make summit and a further four to have everyone safely back in their tents and recovering at Camp 3. It was a long grueling day for everyone involved and I can honestly say that all members fell into the deep sleep of those who have attempted and come out grinning at one of the most demanding sports on the planet. Six of the starting eleven stood on the summit but all who set foot in the region and on Aconcagua herself took something away with them that educated or improved them in some way, I know I certainly did.

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Aconcagua Expedition Day 14

February 20th, 2011

The weather was perfect for our move to Camp 3, the only problem was that I had a hideous nights sleep the night before. Im blaming the restless night on the fact that I ate enough powdered cheesecake given to me by another team to kill a small rhinoceros. I have always been one to indulge in the delicious treat and after not tasting anything so good for some time I over did it and payed the price. I felt very weak on the move up and even though we completed the leg an hour faster than the time before I was dredding our summit day the next day if I still felt like this. I fell into bed early in the afternoon hoping for a good sleep and clear skies, just as the snow started to fall.

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Aconcagua Expedition Day 13

February 20th, 2011

Half way through the night while I was topping up my pee botle to the brim and trying not to spill it into my sleeping bag I noticed that the weather was calm. It must have stayed the way for the rest of the night because when I zipped open the tent this morning it was a beautiful site. Clear blue skies, no wind and crisp white snow lying motionless on every surface. It was a great day for our load carry to Camp 3 at 6000m, it was tough though as we had to break trail through two feet on snow most of the way. After resting long enough at Camp 3 to cache gear and get headaches we descended back to Camp 2. The weather forecast for the next few days looks great so the plan is to move to Camp 3 tomorrow and if the weather holds try for the summit the following day. Our lead guide Matias gave us the news that two of the three missing climbers have been found but have sustained bad frostbite to their hands and feet, the third is still missing. He also dropped the bombshell that two climbers died yesterday on there way to summit and they are not able to get the bodies down for some time. This means that on our way to the summit we will be confronted with the bodies and will have to deal with it. I knew that mountaineering was a risky enterprise but I also thought that I wouldnt have to see dead climbers untill Everest. No one knows the details of why these climbers died and I do not want to speculate here, Matias simply said that the mountain is dangerous and has to be respected at all times.

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Aconcagua Expedition Day 12

February 20th, 2011

The weather continued to be fierce all night and although it is sunny this morning the wind is unforgiving. I got very little sleep due to headaches from the increased altitude and the news we received over breakfast did little to lighten our moods. There are now three Spanish climbers missing up on a part of the mountain called the Polish Glacier, as well as an English team in trouble high up with an unconscious member. The weather yesterday caught all teams off guard, we were lucky we were close to our camp when the worst hit us, the teams high on the peak would have been caught in a nightmare. The rescue teams are out searching and we are waiting for any new information to develop, today will be a rest day for us with tomorrow looking to be alright for a load carry up to Camp 3. We have just received word that the unconscious member has died higher up from Camp 3. This is terrible news and has given everyone on our team a big reality check. The weather has picked up intensity again but Im sure we are all now in no rush to go higher unless its perfect conditions.

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Aconcagua Expedition Day 11

February 20th, 2011

We woke up to high winds and cold but clear skies so we decided to make the move to Camp 2 after breakfast. It was close to -10 already with wind chill and about an hour into the climb the weather turned and it started to snow. We continued on as the weather worsened into near white out conditions and we were hiking through knee deep snow. It was a tough 4 hrs to reach the camp and on arrival we had to try to set up the tents in gale forced winds, horizontal pelting snow and near exhaustion. Our guides were machines at assisting us through the white out and getting everyone into camp safely. This was the toughest day I have had on the mountain so far but it was also the most exciting. One breath per step, blinding snow and ice forming long strands hanging from my beard, it was Hollywood stuff. The storm is still raging outside so we will have to wait and see if we can complete a load carry to Camp 3 tomorrow, what a day.

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Aconcagua Expedition Day 10

February 20th, 2011

Had a fairly terrible nights sleep, was waking up every couple of hours with headaches. I have been holding off taking any pills for it but this morning two panadol to ease the acclimatisation process were needed. It was still snowing at midnight last night but as I watch the frost thaw and water trickle down the inside of my tent there is a good possibility that we will be making the move to Camp 2 tomorrow. Im always keen to keep moving higher towards our goal but its a slow process for a reason, if you rush up these big mountains you simply get to sick to make a decent summit attempt. So I guess mountaineering is teaching me patience amongst everything else. It has just started to snow again and the weather on the horizon does not look inviting, lets hope we can still make a move soon.

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Aconcagua Expedition Day 9

February 20th, 2011

It was a bitter cold night last night, my water bottle must have slipped out of my sleeping bag during the night because it was slightly frozen, nothing worse then waking up in the morning when its cold and having to drink a slushy. For breakfast I had some hard cake roll dipped in hot water which was very nice believe it or not. It was then time to slip off the Down Jacket, throw on the pack and begin the first load carry into the unknown up to Camp 2. It was steep and tough going with a cold breeze coming head on most of the way up. It took us 3hr 40min to gain 500m altitude finishing at 5500m.  We were quick to cache the gear have a short break and begin our decent just as it started to snow. The weather chased us all the way back down to Camp 1 and we are now all huddled down in our tents as a foot of snow has fallen already. Today was a tough day and it has taken its toll on a couple of our team, Johanna and Petros have decided to pull the pin and be evacuated by Helicopter as soon as the storm clears, Warwick left after the Camp one haul, hes was our oldest member and I think the mountain was giving him a tough time. This sport isnt for everyone but I hope that they all learnt something from their time up here and take that away with them, we are now a crew of 8.

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Aconcagua Expedition Day 7/8

February 20th, 2011

Day 8 was a well deserved rest day after our first load carry to Camp 1, plenty of food and water going down range. I also had another two visits to the Doc trialing some different meds to get my blood pressure down but no luck. He gave me one last handfull of pills, the strongest available, and told me if my pressure wasnt down below 160 by the morning then I will not be able to continue up the mountain with the rest of the team. This sent me into stress mode straight away, to think that all my training and preparation for this mountain could be for nothing due to a simple thing as blood pressure. That night I decided to eat a few more of the pills that I had left over from previos visits to try to get under 160. The next morning I stayed as calm as I could trying to think happy thoughts and not thoughts about my dream about to be taken away. The Doc did his thing and to all of our suprise I came in at 145, probably the lowest my BP has ever been. The Stress relief was immediate and I was clear to carry on with the rest of the team, who said overdosing is bad. Straight after I was given the all clear we begun our move to Camp 1 with the remainder of our gear and said goodbye to Base Camp for good. My load was heavier than the first trip to Camp 1 but we completed it in a quicker time despite the fact that it started to snow half way up.We are now Set up at Camp 1 and have planned the first load carry to Camp 2 tomorrow.

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Aconcagua Expedition Day 6

February 20th, 2011

Had my second visit to the mountain Doctor today and it was a write off. My Blood Pressure has shot up to 180/80 now. I feel fit and strong though and the Doc said I can continue on with the first load carry but that he wants to see me again after the second round of pills he gave me takes effect. We are a big team and we have a hell of a lot of equipment with us on this mountain so part of the process involved in climbing the mountain and acclimatising is to conduct load carries. This involves separating our gear into the stuff we dont need right now and carrying that higher up the mountain to our next camp then returning to the lower camp for a day to recover. After the rest day we will take the second load to the higher camp and stay there, then repeating the process continually moving higher. A few of the team have opted to have Porters carry there equipment up the mountain so that they can save all there strength for the summit day but I wanted to do it all myself as a personal goal. The first carry to Camp 1 is 800m elevation up to 5000m. It had a glacier crossing and a tough scree slope to navigate through to achieve the top. It was tough but not sole destroying, it took 7hr 40min to hit Camp 1 where we rested just long enough to get headaches and then descend back to Base Camp. Needed a big dinner and after consumption went to see my old friend the Doc. BP was still 175/80 so it was more pills and come back tomorrow. Im starting to get nervous about it which isnt going to help my cause at all. Lets see tomorrow.

Aconcagua Expedition Day 5

February 20th, 2011

I had a fair amount of sleep last night but whenever I rolled over or moved the headaches would kick into gear from the altitude and take some time to calm down again. Im sure everyone wants to know how your supposed to take a leak when its freezing outside up in the mountains. Well what most of us do is keep a spare Nalgene water bottle used specifically for that task. So instead of getting out of your sleeping bag and getting cold you fill up the bottle when you need to and then keep it inside your sleeping bag for added warmth, its a win win. Had a decent breakfast before having to go get my medical clearance from the doctor. As part of the safety program for Aconcagua you have to be cleared by the Doctor at Base Camp before you can continue higher up the mountain, this was brought in to minimise the risk of people dying on the mountain. My O2 saturation, which is the amount of oxygen in your blood, was great at 91, Heart Rate was fine but my blood pressure was 160/80. This is at the limit for a climber to continue on so the Doc gave me a couple of pills to take over night and asked to see me again tomorrow. Headaches were easing by the end of our first rest day which is great, it means im acclimitising well and will be ready for the first load carry up to Camp 1.

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Aconcagua Expedition Day 4

February 19th, 2011

Up early and with a quick breakfast in our bellies we had to make a river crossing to get onto the track leading us up to Base Camp. Now the rivers over here are not the same as crossing a little stream back in Oz. Here when your feet break the water it feels like they are on fire from the cold and you do your utmost to get across and warm them up again. With the crossing out of the way and the blood slowly returning to the toes in was onwards and upwards towards our Base Camp Plaza de Argentina at 4200m and a 1000m altitude gain for the day. Our arrival at Base Camp concluded the walk in and Stage one of the expedition according to Matias. We have to make our tents here bomb proof because in Dec six tents were ripped from the mountain by winds and the trip had to be cancelled. I started to get headaches as soon as we arrived which is part of the natural acclimitisation process, I managed to fix it with cordial and cake and slipped into bed. The hard part of the trip is about to begin.

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Aconcagua Expedition Day 3

February 19th, 2011

We were up at 6.45AM with the tent down and everything packed for the the next leg of the journey in 35min. Not to bad when its nice conditions but we will have to get more efficient for when we are higher on the mountain and hit bad weather. It was 5 degrees last night and my sleeping bag was far to hot. Reading the tag in says I can survive at -67 degrees so its a little of an overkill for the moment. It was a longer trek today with some decent heat around the middle of the afternoon, 6 hrs 40min to reach our second camp called Casa de Peirdra. Close to the end of the day we got our first look at Aconcagua, it looks epic in the distance covered in ice and snow. As I gazed up it dawnded on me how far we have to go to get to the top. Our altitude is steadily rising and tonight we sleep at 3200m, should be a chilly one.

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Aconcagua Expedition Day 2

February 19th, 2011

At the start of the second day before we left for the hills I gave mum a call to check on my sister as we had heard that there was a Category 5 cyclone inbound up in north Queensland where she lives. All was apparently okay with all the necessary preparations being made. Our own preparations for the day involved separating all our gear into mule sized loads for the three day trek into Base Camp. We needed ten mules for our team with each mule allocated 60kg max. The trail started just outside Penintentes with a ranger outpost who checked permits and wished us luck. It was a slow and silent walk that day with everybody deep in their own thoughts about the upcoming days. Six hours later we pulled up at our first camp at 2800m, set up tents and sorted gear. The mule drivers cooked us a barbecue that night that will rival any aussie back yard feast, I also tried the local herb tea called Mati, very strong flavour but not too bad. Fell into the sleeping bag content.

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Mission Accomplished

February 19th, 2011

I have stood on the top of Aconcagua the biggest mountain outside of Asia at 6962m but it was no easy task in getting there. I lost 8kg, there were six people killed and we were caught in the worst weather the mountain has seen in ten years. However, I will start from the beginning and give you all the details of the long and hazardous process that is mountaineering.

Day 1

After sorting out permits in Mendoza, which suprising enough only took two hours, we loaded up the van with all the expedition gear and drove three hours into the mountains to the Penintentes ski resort, which in the summer months caters to climbers and trekkers. We took an acclimatisation trek around the near by hills up to 3275m, it was blowing a gale and sunny but everybody felt fine and was in good spirits. My bunk buddy is Michael, and Aussie customs officer from Gladstone, hes a top bloke and we are getting along no problems at all. We start our walk in tomorrow and at our group meal together I ate 3 x entrees, all the bread, my main plus 2 x desserts. I slept like a baby.

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Aconcagua Team

January 31st, 2011

We have a mixed bag of people and nationalities making up our Aconcagua team for January 2011. Our expedition leader is Matias, a Chilean who has 10years of guiding experience on the mountain and before that was as a porter for many years. Leonardo and Juan are the two other guides assisting Matias, they are from Chile and also have many years working the seasons with international crews. The rest of the team comprises,

Petros – Australia

Simon – New Zealand

Johanne – Norway

Knut – Norway

Richard – New Zealand

Richard – USA

Warwick – Australia

Michael – Australia

Dody – Indonesia

Brian – Canada

It is a fairly large team mixed with beginners and experienced, ranging from 26 – 61 years of age. The reports from teams coming off the mountain haven’t been very encouraging. Most teams this season have hit extreme winds and cold and haven’t had more then a couple of their team summit. A team I was talking to yesterday had no one make summit, it seems that the weather on the mountain has been unkind to almost everyone since the season opened in Dec. One team in Dec had most of there tents blown clean off the mountain at camp three and had to return home. So although the weather has been terrible Matias assures us that it is time for it to change, “it cannot stay this bad all season”. So today we gather up all equipment, pick up our permits from the tourist office and head out to the staging area for our attempt on Aconcagua, a ski lodge named Penintentes. I am not daunted by these reports on the weather, if anything it has filled me with greater excitement as its going to take all my strength to stand on top of the biggest mountain in the Americas and as I always say, if it could be done easy then there would be no point in doing it as I would learn nothing.

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Transit

January 29th, 2011

I flew from Australia on the day the nation celebrates the arrival of the first fleet to Sydney Cove in 1788. A day that I would typically be out at a barbecue upholding the Aussie tradition of getting shit faced and singing “I come from a land down under” at the top of my lungs. This year however I was sober and boarding a plane for the first leg on my Seven Summits adventure. I flew to Auckland and the land of the Kiwi after sweet talking a few kilograms off my excess baggage charge upon check in. The flight was an easy 3hr jump but I then had a 15hr stop over until my connection to Mendoza. I was planning on sleeping in the airport and saving the pennies but then thought id better go check out Auckland city while I’m here. I jumped in a cab and asked the young Indian guy to take me to a cheap hotel in the city. He said he knew of a nice place for $69 dollars, that sounded fine, so off we went. As we turned out of the Airport I noticed a sign that put the city 20km away, then looking down at the meter spinning like a top I knew I had prob made the wrong choice by getting a cab. $76 dollars later I exited the worlds most expensive cab and entered the Asian hotel recommended by the cabbie. A little Asian guy behind the reception said “$89 dolla with window, $69 dolla no window”. I took the no window option and at two in the morning fell into bed.

I woke from a nightmare about bed bugs checking my skin for bites then realising that it was a dream. I did have a great 9hr sleep in that unventilated room however and bouncing out of bed I was ready to go check out the city. I have never been one to marvel at buildings always preferring to seek out mountains and cultures in the most inhospitable places than look at chapel. However as I made my way down to the Princess docks on Auckland Harbour I had to stop and marvel at one of mans greatest feats. The Princess Ocean liner was massive and dwarfed any other ship in the area. I had a coffee near by, grabbed a quick picture then made my way back to the hotel. I decided on the cheaper option of a $20 shuttle bus back to the airport and boarded my next leg to the Mountains.

It was a 15hr haul from Auckland to Mendoza on the South American airline LAN. They are a great airline and like a moth to a flame I sat up the entire way watching movies instead of getting some sleep. I met one of my team mates Petros on the flight, he is a fellow Queenslander and will be tackling Aconcagua to raise money for Camp Quality. After clearing customs in Medoza we met our local contact Carlos who was holding up a sign reading Luck Richmond, he took us to our accomodation and staging area for the expediton in the heart of Mendoza, the Hotel Nutibura. Medoza is a beautiful place with amazing trees lining every street in the city, cafes and restaurants lining the sidewalks. I was ready ro crash at four in the afternoon but knew it would be better for the body clock to stay up so Petros and I decided to go and find one of the famous Argentinian steaks we had heard so much about. All of the rumours were true and after downing at least half a kilo of beef with olives, breads and vegetables I was more then ready to get in the horizontal.

After the longest sleep in my life of about 12hours I sprung out of bed ready to meet the rest of the team and begin planning our attack on Aconcagua. After all the training and preparation Day 1 is finally here.

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